Ikat

Ikat weaving is a process of tying bundles of either the lengthwise warp, or crosswise weft, cotton fibres (or both in Tenganan  double ikat)  with temporary, resist plant fibres to create  patterns   when   the bundle  is dipped  into  dye.  Multiple processes of tying and dipping create complex colours and  shapes. Afterwards the dyed strands are woven with a uniform cross weave and then  may be  embellished  with  supplementary embroidery,  shells or beadwork.

 

Ikat weaving has a long history in Eastern Indonesia being introduced from Vietnamese, Dong-Son culture  around 400 AD. Until recently, Sumban culture was based on weaving – as art, clothing, exchange (the cloths function like money  in a complex ‘kula’ gift system)  and  sacrifice (being ritually destroyed in burial ceremonies).

 

The  cloth’s importance was such that it was thought  that in  the  womb the foetus was offered either a sword  or  a weaving  stick and that its selection determined  its  sex (males taking the sword)18. The Sumban pieces use hybrid images  reflecting  the cultures of successive  waves  of invaders and the multiple contacts of an island, seafaring people.  Thus the works contain many imported motifs such as Chinese phoenixes, Dutch lions, and Arab horses.

 

This work was readily adaptable to Rish’s own imagery. So, in 1993, he travelled to Sumba and, in  Kalu village, found  weavers  Umbu Augustinus  Tonga Retang and Rambu Monika Uru Emu, to make work for  me. His designs use adaptations of local motifs combined with those from other weaving cultures.           


Lone Sharks 1995 
weavers Augustinus Tonga Retang and Monika Uru Emu 
ikat, handwoven, natural dyed, cotton 230 X 95 cm, Sumba

Heart of Darkness 1995 
weavers Augustinus Tonga Retang and Monika Uru Emu
ikat, handwoven, natural dyed cotton, cowrie shells and beading, 230 X 95 cm Sumba

Culture and Imperialism has a road king holding a guided missile. This technology does not improve things too much for the local population being squashed down below. At the sides snakes are whispering into telephones.


Trouble in Paradise is a very dangerous subject hence the strong border of figures with an electro positive force field connecting them. Inside this border is a central army, surrounded by rows of planes, missiles, phones and television: Since the CNN coverage of the Gulf war, television being one of the main implements of war. There is a red car and footprints leading from it where its occupant has been dragged off.

How the Leopard Lost Its Spots 1995 
weavers Augustinus Tonga Retang and Monika Uru Emu Ikat, handwoven, natural dyed, cotton 
230 X 95 cm Sumba

Trouble in Paradise 1995 
weavers Augustinus Tonga Retang and Monika Uru Emu
ikat, handwoven, natural dyed, cotton 260 X 120 cm Sumba

Electron Storm 1995 
weavers Augustinus Tonga Retang and Monika Uru Emu
ikat, handwoven, natural dyed, cotton 180 X 70 cm Sumba

Souvenir 1995 
weavers Augustinus Tonga Retang and Monika Uru Emu ikat, handwoven, natural dyed, cotton, plus shell beading 260 X 120 cm Sumba